I started by looking at images of Edie Sedgwick, one of the ultimate rebel women, but I was also really inspired by punk, of course the big thing at the moment with the opening of the punk Chaos to Couture exhibition at the Met. I wanted a mix of late ’60s going into late ’70s, and I was influenced by Karlheinz Weinberger pictures of the women that he shot in the late ’50s and ’60s, so there’s a few reference mash-ups going on.
The punk side of it was to look a little bit dirty rather than super clean with sharp lines. For someone trying to recreate this look themselves, you don’t have to have that expert steady hand because you’re using brushes to smudge everything and it has a slightly soft-focus feeling: a bit like someone’s looking at her with beer goggles! I wanted it a little bit worn in and lived in. Punk’s not just a look, it’s a lifestyle, so the makeup should reflect that.
The skin is quite modern and fresh and I used the Chanel Vitalumiere base which is super sheer. I also used the Tom Ford Shade & Illuminate creams to create this amazing sculpted cheek. I always contour using a brush then use the palms of my hands to push it into the skin. To highlight, I use the tips of my fingers to tap on the top of the cheek bone.
The ’60s part is the false lashes, but I used quite dense lashes, not too wide, which were just focused on the centre of the eye. It’s a lot of eye makeup: cream, powders, layers and layers of product, but you just build it up and blend it out. It isn’t just a smoky eye, it has a round graphic shape, the exaggerated crease line and a really heavy eyebrow. I made her brows thicker and dirtier. They were pushed up, drawn on, and smooshed into the skin using a mascara wand so it almost stains the skin underneath the hair of the eyebrow.
The lip was drawn on with pencil, using a darker nude shade to give definition, but then I took Estée Lauder’s Vanilla Truffle lipstick and pushed it into the centre of the lip using my fingers. It’s not precise or painted on but rough and raw around the edges.
For nails we went for a really beautiful dark metallic blue. I love the mix of the hot blue against the black leather jacket.”